A Better Burger in a Better Bun
The May Day Bank Holiday might have been a bit of a washout, but the impulse to eat outdoors is on the up - surely brighter, warmer days are ahead! We're wheeling out the barbecue and standing by.
Before the current chill, the soil warmed up and the garden surged - we've had our first edible asapragus crop since moving down to East Sussex. A traditional May marker, we've been enjoying the bounty simply steamed with salt and a twist of pepper, or, of course, barbecued.
Our favourite alternative to a garden picnic is to go, for a treat, to the Ship Inn on the Strand in Rye. It's a great place for lunch, and no doubt also great for dinner, but sadly our crazy bakers' hours don't allow for that pleasure... The food has a saesonal flavour, as you can see from the sample menus on their website www.theshipinnrye.co.uk . The Ship's ethos is the same as ours: laying out good quality, simple, interesting, local food in pleasant surroundings. The pub's proprietor, Karen Northcote, is rather savvy - she's introduced a decor that is subtle and relaxing, combining the old building's original features with designer-chic wallpaper and characterful furniture in a way that's not "in your face" but nonetheless is a feast for the discerning eye.
At the quayside spot our food preferences come to the fore: Rachel prefers the fresh fish, while Liz's lunch of choice is usually a hamburger (she is American after all). The Ship's hamburger - served in what else but a Lighthouse Bakery burger bun? - scores 10/10 every time. Good bread provides a balance to the meaty goodness of a burger. To play its part, a bun should be soft enough to fill up with oozy juices, and yet robust enough to remain intact. You want to be able to get the full depth of the complete package - burger and bun - easily into your mouth, which is why a sourdough or ciabatta roll is not the answer: too crusty, too much bulk. If you want to have a go at making your own buns, see our recipe below.
Meanwhile, can we also make a plea for home-made burgers? They take very little time to prepare: some good quality mince from your local butcher seasoned simply with salt and pepper and pan-fried works a treat. At the Ship they use a mixture of 1/3 each flank, brisket and chuck mince, with some red onion, gherkin, caper, chilli and coriander leaf thrown in for good measure. Put that in your pan and fry it!
Lighthouse Bakery Hamburger Buns (makes approximately 12)
This is a two day bread that begins with a starter using white sourdough culture (batter style). If you don't have any sourdough, simply omit it and increase the other liquids accordingly, or try an equivalent amount of plain yogurt.
Day 1: Starter
25g fresh / 12g active dried / 10g instant Yeast
125g Milk
125g White Sourdough
125g Water at room temperature
300g Plain Flour
Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl or lidded container until smooth. Cover, and leave at cool room temperature overnight.
Day 2: Final Dough
300g Plain Flour
7g Salt
60g Caster Sugar
30g fresh / 15g active dried / 12g instant Yeast
1 large Egg
25g lightly salted Butter (softened)
All the Starter from the day before
To finish: Sesame seeds (optional)
Mix all the ingredients together to form a rough dough and knead until smooth and silky. Add flour judiciously as necessary to form a smooth dough.
Put the dough into a deep bowl or lidded container, cover and leave to bulk-ferment for 1 hour. The dough will double in bulk.
Pre-heat the oven to 200° C / 400° F
Scale the dough into pieces of 95g and mould into rounds. Place them well-spaced on a baking tray. Cover loosely with a linen tea-towel topped with plastic (carrier bag, or polythene bag) to prevent skinning and leave them to prove in a warm spot until well risen and puffy.
Just before baking, mist with water and sprinkle with sesame seeds if desired, or leave plain, and bake for 12 - 14 minutes, turning the tray mid-way through baking, until the top half of the bun is golden brown.